BODY & PAINT
Wikipedia entry (great info and lots of photos) however, the SM1500 shows the saloon rather than the more popular SM 4AD SM1500 Roadster. Singer Motors
These cars are fairly rare so finding a driveshaft assembly will be difficult. Are you sure the shaft is bent? It's not uncommon for the shaft to rub the floor pan if the car is loaded down or the rear springs have sagged. A bent driveshaft will cause horrific vibration at even moderate speed so that would be a clue there.
under frame window seal for a 54 4AD, I am also looking for a singer radiator badge . I am trying to see if they are available from the UK
I got mine from Bill Haverly of ASCO in England several years ago. Bill has passed on and I'm not sure who has taken over the club parts stock, but you can email Barry Paine at:
Barry can contact the right person to see if they might still have some in stock.
ASCO bought all of Bill's spare after he passed away, so I am sure Barry will steer you in the right direction. I believe the spares are now in proper storage and have been assessed, so they should have a good idea of what is available.
if you are in the U.S. the year is often incorrect. Back then in many states (Calif. was one of them) states would list the model year as the first year the car was sold. So it is possible to have a 1953 model car listed as a 1952 if you bought it in December 52 for example, or 54 or 55 depending on how long it took to sell. The UK clubs at one time would send information on the car but it is by no means a "Heritage Certificate" just information on when the car was built, color, etc.
Re: Recommendations for Restoring cloisonne
Postby Peter McKercher » Wed Nov 23, 2016 6:48 pm
These guys look like they do the job right, but they will be expensive and slow. http://emblemagic.com/enamel_expl.htm You might also try a jeweller.
RECHROMING:
Tiny’s Custom Polishing & Powder Coating
Chrome repair and plating, powder coating
589 Industrial Blvd, Unit C3, Pueblo West, CO 81007
719-406-2482
Great recommendation from Jesse Medina, did a great job on my radiator shell and ornament ($500). Pieces sent to either Texas or California.
UPHOLSTERY:
Great photos of side curtain rebuild: http://www.guru-group.fi/~kabu/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=36&Itemid=64
Postby loriseller » Sun Jan 29, 2012 3:41 pm
Hi,
I need some help! i need to remake the wooden frame that makes the back seat in preparation for new upholstery. Does anyone have good pictures of the back seat wooden frame. I have the old vinyl but it is in ROUGH shape. The wood basically disintegrated when I lifted it so I don't have a pattern and i'm pretty sure it was not all original in the first place. i would like to know if the back portion and the actual seat are somehow attached or if they are meant to be separate. Does the seat simply sit into the back pan or is it held there somehow? How does the back attach to the actual car? Does anyone have a pattern to make the back seat upholstery cover including the section that snaps over the convertible top to hide it when it is down? Any pictures would be very helpful!
thanks,
Lori
Pattern for the rear hood flap that covers the hood arches when stored: http://www.guru-group.fi/~kabu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=137:wiring-work-and-pattern-creation&catid=36:singer&Itemid=64
WHEEL WELL UPHOLSTERY: http://www.guru-group.fi/~kabu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49:interior-work-progress&catid=36:singer&Itemid=64
INTERIOR DETAILS: http://www.guru-group.fi/~kabu/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=viewcategory&catid=35&startpage=4&Itemid=80#category
HOOD - CAR TOP
• Quote
Postby kabu » Fri Apr 16, 2010 6:05 am
I am currently working on the interior details, the seats and the rest of the upholstery of my Singer 4AD, 1954 restoration. Now I am figuring out the construction and details about the flap that covers the hood (convertible top) well when the hood is down. From the original rear seat cover that I have I can see that the flap is sewn into the top edge of the rear seat cover. From pictures I have a pretty good idea what the flap has originally looked like but since I don't have an original pattern I don't have a good idea what the construction of the flap is like, especially the underside of it.
The rectangle slots I believe are for the strap that holds the spare tire on and the 2 holes are for the bracket that the strap loops through. I will see if I can find some pics. If Dave does not have the scissor stuff, I can 1. take measurements for you or 2. you pay shipping and you can have a set.
HOOD FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
BOOT - (TRUNK)
Great photo and description: http://www.guru-group.fi/~kabu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=148:boot-area&catid=36:singer&Itemid=64
CARPET:
Easier to install before fitting doors.
GLOVE BOX FABRICATION:
PAINT:
Coronation Blue vs Salvador Blue great discussion of paint and trim color choices
Morgan stand in done with British Racing Green:
'52 TD Stand in:
BODY:
4AD Dashboard layout - http://www.singercars.com/4ax/4ad_dash.html
EXPIRED AD, BUT GOOD INFO AND PHOTOS
Not an MG: 1954 Singer SM Roadster Project w/ No Reserve
This 1954 Singer SM (chassis L4AD2780) is a final 4AD series version of the Coventry-based marque’s open sports car platform, first introduced in 1939 as the 9 Roadster. Similar in size and concept to an MG T-type but far less common, just 3,440 SM’s were built over a five-year production run–this one as a penultimate model year example. Now largely disassembled but claimed to be almost entirely complete, it retains a matching-numbers engine and gearbox, and many new ash wood body framing components have been fitted as well. Find it here on eBay in Willoughby, Ohio with no reserve and a single, $500 bid at the time of writing.
Here’s the 1497 four, fitted with optional dual carbs for a whopping 58 HP–up 10 from single carb base models. The seller says it was running prior to pulling, and that both it and the engine remain matching-numbers to this chassis.
Here’s a look from the rear prior to disassembly. Says the seller: “Car is now apart and is a rolling chassis. Only parts missing when dad bought it in 2007 where the bumpers, wiper motor, and front apron. I can provide a pattern and photos of the apron from my father’s other Singer 4AD. Engine and transmission numbers match and motor ran before being removed. I can reinstall the engine and transmission if needed for shipping. My dad has already rebuilt the front cowling with new ash wood frames and had new rear ash body framing made along with new wood inner fenders.”
Here’s the car as it sits now, and what can be seen of the simple chassis looks to be pretty good. Likewise, bodywork seemed to be pretty decent when still fitted, and though restoring any 63 year old car will be a challenge, provided corrosion is limited and parts as complete as claimed, putting this one back together could be an enjoyable one.
1952 Singer 4AD Restoration lots of great photos
• Quote
Postby Mark Thompson » Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:27 am
Moss Motors carries fender "piping" in black, red, green and cream for the MG-Ts. It comes in 9 yard lengths.
Great discussion, multiple photos of Singer seat rail guides and mounting of seats: http://forum.singercars.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1238
MIRROR:
JC Whitney LIVES: I know that these mirrors are not "original equipment" and would not pass the test in restoration competition but they are going to work just fine for my 4AD driver. The are universal replacement motorcycle mirrors from J.C. Whitney company. They are quite well made with good chrome and the threaded ends are 10mm x 1.25 metric. The mirror heads are 4" diameter. The threaded ends will go through the slotted hole of the windscreen pivot and fasten with a 10mm nut on the inside. I happen to have a couple of 10mm castle nuts which look nice. The only disadvantage is the windscreen cannot be pivoted down completely with the mirrors in place. The price is very good at $9.95 for a pair. Here is the link to the mirrors in the catalog. Part no. ZX063593N
WINDSCREEN:
It is aluminum as Mike said. measures 12.75 mm wide
and is 96.5 cm long (38 inches) and is 1.45 mm thick.
it bends approx. its width at the center besides bending with the contour of the panel.
Hole spacing is approx. 7.6 cm apart with a start of 3 cm from the end
there are 13 holes approx. 3.25 mm in dia for the wood screws.
**This article explains how all of this fits together and the way an aluminum strip fits it to the scuttle: http://www.guru-group.fi/~kabu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=151:windscreen-bottom-gasket&catid=36:singer&Itemid=64
MISCELLANEOUS:
SEE the KIP Motor Company Orphan Catalog (.pdf version in Singer Rebuild folder)
FINLAND
Great site for car sold in Finland and subsequent restoration. Great photos: http://www.guru-group.fi/~kabu/
• side curtains
• carpets
• Tools
• Manufacturing plate
• Hood (later article on Fitting of the Hood)
• Chassis
• Brightwork (chrome)
• Electrical
• Wiper Motor
• Engine
• Front End Panels
• Fuel System
• Interior Details
• Primer Paint
• Radiator Frame (from SCRATCH!!)
• Seats
• Side Grilles
• Steering Wheel
• Wheels/Tyres
• Wheel nut fabrication