2019

• 20190107 - Accelerator linkage and boot hinges

‍ ◦ Before we were to take a hacksaw to the angle iron on top of the valve cover case, I decided to see how the old accelerator linkage worked. After multiple tries I finally understood how it worked, however, I needed to come home and find a photograph before I realized that the accelerator pedal hangs down from above instead of being hinged from below.

‍ ◦ The boot hinges were more of a problem. It was pure magic that I was able to find the hinge pins, which are actually long screws with a groove cut in the threads. In the bolt jar I found one of these screws with 2 Springs attached. It then occurred to me that the hollowed out portion at the end of the hinge is a housing for that spring. And where the two mating hinge surfaces meet the metal has been hollowed out to receive what must've been a sphere with a hole in it. After looking at one of the door hinges, and noticing what that center bead looks like, I was able to find two chromed pieces at Rampart plumbing that look like they will do the job. Hard to believe…

• 20190114 - Clutch linkage

‍ ◦ I've been searching for the clutch linkage for months, and finally after Brad gave me a boost, I found a photo which looked like the missing piece. Searched the garage and all the boxes at Brads…no cigar.

‍ ◦ This morning I spotted it…attached to (screwed into) the emergency brake lever!! I must have done that a LONG time ago. It fit perfectly, but was in the wrong place.

‍ ◦ We now have a working clutch pedal.

‍ ◦ Next is to make a threaded clevis for the emergency brake.

• 20190201 - Brakes…again

‍ • Brad out, Kevin’s last day

‍ • Pulled rt. Rear wheel to check brakes. All good, but very tight.

‍ • Left rear (driver side) no brakes and missing piston for brake cylinder!

‍ • Found cylinder in bag and had devil of a time installing brake pads (springs fit in rear of shoes!)

‍ • Actually, despite Kevin’s assurance, we may not have the right brake shoes.

• 20190226 - Dry spell, GOB

‍ • Brad's operation in turmoil. I waited a couple of weeks to see if he could get the jeep done and the spare parts cleaned out to make room for me. Nope. He hasn't worked on it either.

‍ • My homework also got buried

‍ ▪ G for Gasket. I finally ordered the cork gasket for the gas sending unit from Moss today, but wanted to wait to see if their brake lines would fit before ordering them.

‍ ▪ O for Oil Filter. Took photos today to see if Moss might have a screw on filter conversion fitting.

‍ ▪ B for Brakes. Found an old MG backing plate with brake hose attached. Will take the hose and the assembly back to Brad's to see if the threads fit (thus being available from Moss) and if the spring arrangement makes more sense than the way I did it.

◦ 20190306 - Moss parts - oil filter, brake lines, gas sending gasket

‍ • The parts arrived and everything fit!!

‍ • The oil filter ($4.50) is a Classic Gold #GFE104 (Moss #950-580) made in India and fits a Triumph TR2-4A and early Austin Healey.

‍ • I had to loosen the rusty spring and rubber retainer in the bottom, then fit a washer in the upper recess inside the self-contained rubber washer and finally drill out two large washers from old seat belts to just a bit over 1/2" for the top and bottom retainers which center and put spring tension on the paper filter. I think this will work fine, although changing oil will be a bloody mess.

‍ • If Moss can no longer get this filter, another substitute that might work is a Carquest #85328 from Advanced Auto Parts ($18.39)

◦ 20190501 - Front brakes

‍ • Well…almost everything fit.

‍ ▪ In the last month I brought the MG over to Brad so that we could swap the brake light switches. In addition, I wanted him to take a look at the accelerator cable arrangement, and the front disc brakes on the MG.

‍ • I was able to remove the brake light switch which it been stolen from the Singer, but the cheap plastic brake switch I had ordered from Moss Motors did not work. I ended up going to Ace Hardware and purchasing a $16 momentary on switch and then repurposed an angle bracket which worked the second time. The first time I had it adjusted up too high, and the brakes were prevented from fully engaging. I was able to find the original bolts and spring which easily attached to the Singer using its original brake light switch.

‍ • Brad and I decided to remove the cobbled-on mechanical accelerator arrangement and replace it with a simpler cable arrangement.

‍ ▪ Today I discovered that the flexible brake lines I ordered from Moss Motors we're 3 inches too short. I called them requesting longer lines, and they said they could not accommodate that unless I had a number for them or at least knew what MG, Austin Healey product it came from. I am going to send back the old brake lines, and check locally to see if I can find substitutions. If not I will include photos, measurements, and notations as to which brake lines might fit.

‍ ▪ In addition, today Brad checked both front brakes and discovered we were missing one brake wheel cylinder on the left side which again will have to be photographed, notated, and sent to Moss for someone in the back room to try and find an equivalent. B. said I'd hooked them up correctly.

‍ • At First Rate Auto today I spent an hour puzzling out how to reattach three brake lines for the front brakes. Amazingly, I was able to attach this so that the lines from the master cylinder to the two slave cylinders all fastened up nicely.

‍ • My plan is to return on Friday, take photographs and discuss the situation further with Brad before turning in my Moss Motor order.

‍ • After I left, Brad was supposed to reattach the oil filter housing. 20190503 - Front Brake hose and cylinder

‍ • Went over to Brad's to photograph cylinder and clean up hose for photo.

‍ • Discovered that the old front brake plate (MG?) had the proper cylinder and Jeremy at O'Reilly was able to find a brake hose that would fit!

20190517 - Front Brake backing plates

‍ • Brad and I worked from 9:30 to 11 this morning on the front brakes. I couldn't figure out where the "U-shaped" metal lines to the wheel cylinders went. My photos seemed to show upper to upper in some places and lower to lower in others.

‍ • Brad puzzled and scratched head for a while, then decided that someone had put the backing plates on the wrong side of the car! Once he realized that, he had to dismantle the hub on both sides and switch out the backing plates reattach the hubs and then reattach the brake shoes with the monster Springs.

‍ • That left the problem of where to attach the metal u-shaped brake lines, which he confidently said should go from the bottom of one side to the top of the other side. Duh!! The bleeder valves should be on the top.

‍ • After we got all of that assembled, I noticed that I still needed to the thread one of the transverse brake lines through a special hole in the frame. Half hour later I was able to accomplish that. All in all, not a bad day!

20190531 - Gas gauge sending unit and boot (trunk) lid hinges

‍ • Re-tapped threads for the last screw, found lock washers and used the new cork gasket to mount the gas sending float unit. Found a mysterious pipe inside the gas tank which would have prevented float to float. (Brad nailed it again).

‍ • I then found flat-head screws for the boot hinges. Had to remove screws fastening sheet metal to wooden brace. Once fastened in place, it shows how a great deal of body reshaping is necessary in order to get the boot lid to fit. Brad thinks it will be beyond his body guy to do this. Back to Fogg?

20190607 - Fuel line and Torque Arm assembly

‍ • Brad an hour late for appt. but no big deal. I spent the time trying to find nuts for the torque arm assembly on the passenger side of the engine. Evidently this assembly (looks like a hinge with no pin) takes the torque off of the tilting motion of the engine. Brad may have to cast new rubber parts with the urethane he has left from the motor mounts.

‍ • We (mostly Brad) worked together to snake the long fuel line from the front just forward of the brake/clutch assembly up within the protection of the frame all the way back to the fuel tank.

‍ • One more impossible task accomplished.

‍ • Also, I found the new German fuel pump I bought 40 years ago to replace the original.

20190612 - Rear body mounts
Brad and I had problems trying to figure out what supported the rearmost part of the car. Finally, B. spotted a couple of metal pieces right in front of us. We got them reversed at first but finally figured how they must fit.
Brad spent muscle and dexterity getting the driver's side fastened…and then the head gasket of his main compressor blew! Yikes, that's going to be a problem.
Needless to mention, that was the end of the body attachment appointment. To be continued in a couple of weeks. B. has the Corvette almost ready to roll and the property owner is still fighting with the neighbor!

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20190710 - Tub, wheel wells, running board studs

‍ • The expansion has happened. Brad now paying rent for the whole building. Cut a small door through to the old Jeep garage. Has paint booth and frame straightener? Needs some wiring, plumbing and arrangement of tools. Singer is in southeast corner. Corvette is out, but the custom Toyota Cruiser is still a thorn in Brad's ass. Light in the new area is a problem, so I brought my gooseneck grill lamp.

‍ • Last week pulled the tub and inverted it. Used galvanized flashing to coat the underside of the wheel wells and used hex screws. Tried nails, but disaster.

‍ • Discovered that one of the carriage bolts that protrude to allow the running boards to be attached had sheared. Replaced it with one from home, however, the remaining 5 are British threads which no nuts that I have will fit! Will take taps and dies to convert…something.

‍ • Bolted the other rear body mount to sheet metal.

‍ • Cody, Brad and I flipped the tub back onto the frame. I used masking tape to hold the rubber cushion pads in place. After bolting down all feels nice

20190715 - Running board nuts, Sand boot lid, fit Scuttle, block cooling plug
I had to cut new threads (5/16 x 26 BSF) on the studs that hold the running board. The old nuts now fit, albeit loosely. I bought a new headlamp which worked real well for about 3 hours.
Light still a problem, so I bought a headlamp from Harbor Freight.
As you can see from the photo from last session, the boot lid would not close. Now it's 1" closer to fitting. However, the body people will have a hell of a time making it close smoothly due to welding the cracks in the aluminum tub.
Removed the steering wheel and it's support in order to fit the scuttle over the top. Some discussion about which body metal overlapped once the scuttle was in place.
In order to decide, I put the passenger door on and discovered I had the hinges reversed. Another discovery: there is a locking washer of a different kind on the bottom of each hinge. Ah ha…the boot lid must contain the same washers!
The scuttle seemed to fit nicely, but Brad noticed there was a hole in the block that needed something attached to it. The front of the scuttle nearly touches the engine block!
I found the plug plate that obviously covered this hole but the countersunk screws were stripped. Found hex bolts but there may not be room for them. Found two long screws with 1/4" x 26 BSF which didn't quite fit, but with some wire brushing, brake cleaner and a little force, seemed to do the job. Next time I'll cut the screws to size, apply mastic the the plug and assemble it.

20190717 - Block cooling plug, mount Scuttle
Sanded pointed end of screws protruding from wheel wells.
Brad cut off long slotted screws and supplied mastic to seal the cooling plug to the block. (Naturally, after I had everything tightened down, I found the old gasket!!).
Discovered 3 bolts missing from bell housing to block. Bolted them.
Discovered that the two bolts securing the starter were crooked and only finger tight. Tightened them.
Mounted the Scuttle. Had to drill out 1/2" holes and use larger bolts to fasten it properly.
Discovered the engine serial number: 4AD1973V
Not successful in removing rusted slotted screws that hold the strap metal which holds the floorboard underneath accelerator and foot pedals. Brad has a plan for next time.
Next time
Use wood screws to fasten front of scuttle to wooded members.
Have Brad cast urethane to connect two pieces of torque arm assembly.
Fit battery box panel.

20190802 - Lots of questions…some answers & homework

One of the big questions was about the Singer wiring being positive ground. Brad confesses no experience with this animal, so it has moved to my homework list. (A later call to Martin Willis revealed that should we convert to a negative ground, we could “flash” the generator, but the starter motor likely would spin backwards, we could put the new fuel pump on with an isolation block. Martin said the points and distributor wouldn’t care, but his advice is to move forward with a positive ground. His warning was not to put in a radio as it would likely catch fire!!).
Noticed the steering gear box was still leaking. Brad wanted to know if I could get parts like gaskets, etc. More for my homework list. (Later, I copied drawings of Austin Healey 100-6 steering boxes and will forward to Brad for comparison. I could also scan and send the drawing of the Singer 4AD box and send it to Moss for comparison.)
Speaking of scanning, I scanned the whole Singer 9 Service Manual as a .pdf and made it downloadable from my website. That will give Brad the likely specs for distributor, firing order, etc.
I was having trouble figuring out how to mount the coil. It looked as if I’d have to drill into the battery box, but after discussion with B., we decided that the problem was that Bruce (or whomever) used ½” plywood under the new battery box formed metal piece instead of 3/8”. Guess that’s a new item to be fashioned by me!
On Brad’s list was a delicate urethane casting of the side-motion motor mounts. I came home and found him two holding jigs to steady the parts in the molding process.

20190910 - ReCatching - Fuel Pump, Accelerator cable and pedal, firewall, parking brake and steering gear box

‍ ▪ Brad and I finalized how to rig the new accelerator cable at the business end: an "L" bracket welded to the valve cover with a hole at the top of the "L" which will hold the cable with a nut anchoring front and back.

‍ ▪ Trouble figuring out the other end. Brad sure the spring-loaded accelerator pedal was on backwards. I had reversed it two times before, but now reversed it again. After finding a photo showing the inside of the firewall, Brad asked me to put it back the way I had it! ;>)

‍ ▪ Brad pulled the pedals so we could thread them through the angled floorboard. He then discovered that the long lever for the parking brake needed to be on the engine side of the firewall which means pulling the battery box assembly and the firewall off of the scuttle in order to free the parking brake lever. It also means shortening the long rod with clevis that attaches to the master cylinder.

‍ ▪ We discussed mounting of the fuel pump, type, etc. I produced the German replica of the Lucas original that I bought 30+ years ago. Everything fit like a glove. Now, will it work?

‍ ▪ I showed Brad the drawings of several steering gear boxes (Austin Healey 100-6, TR-2, and Singer. He thinks the AH 100-6 is a match, but will not know for sure until he removes some body sheet metal and pulls the top cover.

20191104 - Shoulder, Accelerator, Steering Gear

Long span between entries. Cathy had shoulder surgery, and I'm primary caregiver.
In the meantime, however, Brad did rig up the accelerator cable which involved cutting off and smoothing down the old bracket and welding on the new one. Looks great.
Recently, he dismantled several pieces of sheet metal and pulled the steering gear. He thinks he's found the leak in the forward gasketed plate. I will send him the recommended replacement lubricant for the steering gear.
Wish I could be back working on the Singer…maybe after Christmas.